Our November / December journey began with a boat journey across Lake Wakatipu on the steamship Earnslaw. Our destination for the day was Mavora Lakes on the Around the Mtn Cycle Trail
The wind was against us and then with us which made for some tough and great riding. As we climbed Von Hill we encountered two other groups going down and they were happy to here that they would have a tail wind for this ride to the Earnslaw
The wind blew us down to Mavora Lakes on great gravel roads (45kms hr on the Garmin at times) but it also bought in overnight rain I forgot to tell Brandi it was one of the worst places for sandflies and after a evening of rain they were out in force as we packed the tent up
But the rain had cleared and we had a great tail wind on the roads and then on the Trail to Mossburn for coffee and lunch. After lunch we sailed in the wind at 40kms hour plus (25miles an hour) the 20kms to Lumsden.
The camp ground is basically empty and after set up we have dinner in the kitchen (town pretty dead in the afternoon and even the pub appears closed)
But again the wind bought in another bout of rain and it poured down - more so in the backcountry but lots on us and about two Brandi wakes to find herself floating a bit on her mattress and we abandon the tent with everything wrapped in the sleeping pads for the dry kitchen where we spend the rest of the night
On return to the tent the next morning it’s still basically dry inside except for a small puddle in one corner
After drying out at the road side laundry down town we roll out of Lumsden to do battle with the wind. A flooded raging Waiau River has left flood waters across the trail in one spot but we pass this with no problem and continue towards our destination of Kingston on the southern end of Lake Wakatipu. But its’ still too windy to camp and we press on, seeking a sheltered spot but this was not to be found so we head for Queenstown - another 40kms added on to the day - 106kms in total.
For Brandi it was only her third riding day but she is always strong.
We did miss however our ride over into the Nevis Valley as the rain had all the rivers running at flood level and the Upper Nevis has multiple river crossings.
After a rest day in Cromwell we head into the Nevis. After finding a nice place to park the camper on Duffers Saddle we drop into he Nevis Valley and ride up valley to Lower Nevis and the first ford - it’s still deep so it had been wise perhaps not to ride it a couple days ago..
This remote back country valley is bordered by high mountain ranges from either side - to the west the Remarkables and Hector Mountains (7,000plus ft / 2133 meters) and to the east the Old Woman Range (5,700 ft / 1739 meters)
The Valley was first used as a trail route by earlier Maori (Nga Tahu) and in the 1860’s Early European settlers farmed the valley. Then, October 1862, saw miners from the Dunstan goldfield discover gold, leading to the Nevis Valley Gold Rush which continued through the nineteenth and twentieth centuries.
Saved by the remoteness of this valley, the remains of numerous stone buildings from the gold mining days offer a fascinating insight into the perseverance and ingenuity of early pioneers. The relics include everything from the cemetery and settlement buildings through to a woolshed and the first ski hut.
The valley is high and the info boards talk off deep winter snow back in the 1870’s when the goldminers were basically trapped in the valley for the winter. Even in these times the back of the Remarkables in Schoolhouse Creek still has a lot of snow and promises some great ski touring in the future
So we head out back to the van but it sits on top of Duffers Saddle @ 1223 meters- (the highest road in NZ) Even with fresh legs the climb out of the Nevis is still hard. It’s just under 600 meters (1900ft) of climbing but the sunset from the saddle in the camper is great.
So we head north in camper with the aim of riding every other day.
A stop at Lake Benmore enables some riding on the Alps to Ocean Trail - for me north around Lake Benmore and Brandi gos south following the Waitaki River and Lake Aviemore.
Travelling north we cross the Canterbury plains and onto the volcanic outcrops of the Banks Peninsula. Over the hills to Akaroa (a small town that plays on being a bit French by calling the some of roads by french names ‘Rue Jollie / Rue Benoit / Le Lievre Lane, bur they are mixed in with Smith Street and Selwyn Ave) but it does have a very nice free camp spot right on the edge of town.
The first European sighting of the peninsula was on 17 February 1770 when Captain Cook described the land as "of a circular figure ... of a very broken uneven surface” HE CERTAINLY GOT THIS PART RIGHT The peninsula is extremely hill and a day of riding up onto the Summit road showed just how hilly it is Big climbs up onto the rolling tops and big descents back down to sea level. - sure made for a fun day out.
A second ride on the northern side on the Port Levy road reveals the same result - climb up sleepily and enjoy a fast descent back down to sea level.
Back in the camper we head north
At Amberley (north of Christchurch) a small evening ride took us to beach where local farmers were 'torpedo fishing' with 25 lines a km off shore - for anything including elephant fish
Others were fishing with a drone taking one hook a km out
Inland at Oxford and about 6 km north is the turn-off to Lees Valley. The road winds through a steep gorge to Lees Valley - very nice gravel riding road - up and down hills with the Ashley River twisting and turning far below. An out and back ride for us.
We cross Arthurs Pass - one of only three passes across the Southern Alps. From Hokitika we spend a day on the Wilderness Trail before returning back over the pass to enjoy an evening of Gin Tasting in Oxford. A very enjoyable evening
And so to Hamner - a mountain bike and spa centre. We ride both ends of the St James Trail and a evening in the forest tracks of the Hamner Forest From here its a small camper ride over the Jacks Pass into the Clarence which gives us access to two days of riding (bike packing) into Molesworth Station.
(Molesworth Station is a high country cattle station. It is located behind the Inland Kaikoura Mountain range in the South Island's Marlborough District. It is New Zealand's largest farm, at over 1,800 square kilometres (440,000 acres)[1]
and supports the country's biggest herd of cattle)
After riding we drive back through Molesworth to Blenheim and discover the first of 4 small town velodromes that I did not known existed - in Blenheim and the Temuka, Waimate and Mosgiel
Heading south from Blenheim down the eastern coast of the South Island we find great riding on the seaward side of the Kaikoura’s - up to top of Pubi Pubi Valley road - a good uphill climb and descent back to Kaikoura for a Bean Me Up coffee
Yellands Winery
In Waimate a ride on the Edition Zero “Snack’ course - 85 km mixed gravel and tar ride reveals the fantastic gravel roads of inland Canterbury. We passed on the “Mains" ride - 233 kms Go back and get that one next year
Now it’s beach time - the phone records us deep in the Great Southern Ocean - sounds romantic. It might be if the water and the air temps were 10 degrees higher, but the sound of crashing waves rings behind me and a glance out the window of the camper shows just how close to the water we are camped . High enough to be be just out of the Tsunami zone - perhaps.
We spend our time at the small coastal town of Brighton Beach - one small shop and one cafe. It’s enough with he city of Dunedin just 20 mins away.
Our typical day went like this. The rising sun at 0500 rising out of the ocean wakes us but it’s still to early to get out of bed. Just a quick site up - have a look at the sky and waves and time for a few more zzz’s.
By 7 -7.30 though it’s time to move. Roll up the bed, use our onboard bathroom, fire up the camper, through the surf board and boogie board back inside and drive the 10mins to the grass car park beside the surf pavilion.
Wet suits on and stroll down the 50 of sand to the water. Company today - no. No one in the water and no sign of our mate the sea lion - yet. Almost very day in the qtr a sea lion or two comes to visit. Sometimes to clear the beach later in the day of the ‘day trippers’ or sometimes to play in the shallow water.
We pay due respect as we are in the terrain but mostly we stay in the water. If they come and say hello - that’s fine. they are known to nibble occasionally but they are not normally aggressive.
By 9 we are normally joined by one or two other locals but its’ our coffee time - so we retreat to the van, coffee pot on while we get changed and have an expresso with our muesli and fruit - or maybe some toasted Gluten free bread from pan ora bakery who make some of the best bread in the world.
After breakfast it’s time to catch up on emails, house bookings in the apartment or simply sit in the sun (sometimes with down jackets on) and relax.
Another classic day at the beach.
Geoff and Brandi
That's it for the moment even though there are many other stories to tell.
Riding the great divide route from Canada to Colorado, ski touring from Treble Cone to Coronet Peak on the Mahu-Whenua Traverse and racing bikes in the Levi Leipheimer's GranFondo Bike Ride
Be Safe Adventuring
