Lake Cap de Long

Is this the best ride in the Pyrenees.  We think so.

From Saint Lary Soulan we climb gently up the valley in the cool of the 9 o'clock morning. Gently spinning - JR, Leslie, Dave and myself.
Turn right at Fabian and start climbing the tight little gorge - first on the left and then the right as we climb steadily (that means above 8%) We can’t tell as all computers are down - or is that worn out.

It’s cool and slowly the mtn tops reveal themselves rising high above us.  The forest thins and we start coming out into the open - we feel like in high California high country or New Mexico - but no it’s the high Pyrenees.

The first lake appears behind it’s barrage but up ahead is the high wall of the Barrage-de-Cap-de-Long. Impressive. Surrounded by the high peaks with snow remnants in the gullies. The road finally eases and we stop for photos. Already this feels like one of the best rides, but more to come as the road zags back and forth through the high rocky slopes below and alongside the barrage.  It’s a pleasure to ride but watch the sheep shit.  They are hiding in the shade of the high built-up road terraces.  We pop suddenly onto the barrage level - the high mtn lake surrounded by big mountains rising to over 3,000meters.. The lake is at 2161m

I read this story after the ride and agree 100% with everything he writes.

http://www.cycling-challenge.com/lac-de-cap-de-long-and-la-route-des-lacs/


Coffee time. The weathered face of the owner appears in the doorway  I ask for a tarte and expresso. A gruff answer. Seems like we will get the service and no more.

How wrong we are. Francis warms to us and we are soon great friends. A couple friendly taps and i’m guided inside to see pictures of Carlos Sastre at the same table as us, the  badges that qualify him as a senior UIAGM mtn guide, heli rescue certificate  and the big dog  Athos that graces the cafe has saved 4 people from avalanches.

We have a great time with him and are shown some of his climbing history - Annapurna, and another mtn in Peru. He brings out his telescope and points it at the high peaks and sure enough on the far peak above the lake are two climbers standing on the summit.

With some reluctance we say good by to Francis and Athos, and he assures us that we must go to Lac d’Aubert as well.  Why not. It’s only another 5-6kms of climbing. 

But it sure is worthwhile - another stunning lake set high in the mtns surrounded by bare rocky peaks and grassy meadows at their feet.  We roll down onto the grass - kick our shoes of and walk into the 17 degree water up to the knees, before curling up in the shelter of some rocks and trees and snoozing for 10 mins or so with tops off.
Holiday riding.

We are again reluctant to leave and peddle slowly away before gravity takes over and we start descending on a closed road back down to the low lake and then back down the bumpy road in the gorge - Watch out for the sheep shit and piss on the road, the occasional rock as well.

14kms later after a couple stops to let the brakes cool and we roll into another roadside cafe for baguette with fromage and jambon before our standard after lunch downhill time trail to home.

The melon, grapes and chocolate pool side was great.