The Bear FatTyre Bike Race on Snow

The Bear

A story in the paper about a Fat Tyre race in the North Routt county attracted Brandi’s attention
Let’s do it ?  I thought she was joking really,  and it stayed out there in the wind - but no - she was not joking and soon we were looking at the web site, and then at gear needed for the race.

First we needed bikes - a visit to Orange Peel sorted that out - two fat tyre bikes lined up
A Carbon Salsa - (28lbs - 12.7kgs)  for Brandi and for Geoff a Scout KLT (30lbs - 13.6kgs)

Now to enter - find the web site and fill out the details, pay the $75 dollars - and were in !!
Two of 45 racers in total - with 11 doing the long ride (105miles) We entered for the 50 mile race (or as Dallas called it - the pussy event)

Ok - so what gear do we need ? Lets start at the bottom.
Shoes. We both have mtn bikes shoes but  we are heading out into the wild backcountry of North Routt around Hahns Peak, and the winter average temperature is -9 degrees C.  That’s like some of the coldest nights in winter for our Tuesday nite rides. But of course we know that it could be as low as -25 degrees so footwear will be really important to our survival.

Google here we come. A lot of looking around to determine what will work best. Another visit to Orange Peel and then back to the net. 

Our final combination.
Super glue the xtra cleat holes in the bottom of the shoes - stops the snow from penetrating into the shoe
2.   Cut some heavy duty tinfoil to fit as the first layer in the bottom of the shoe
3.   Put in some special heat retention insoles
4.   Insert our normal formthotic insoles
5.   Wool socks, and the final article
6 .   a heavy duty of Endura Overboots - ordered on line and arriving just the Thursday prior to the race

Ok - the feet are sorted - what about the hands?  On the net we see mtn bikers with great sets of full heavy duty pogies. It seems the best way to keep the hands warm but they aren’t cheap and how may times are we going to use them - mmm - probably just the once , so the expense is not justified. 
What is the solution ?  I know from experience that a set of plastic bags works really well but it does not seem to be the best solution.  Stuff bags - reusable and with our hands inside with ski cloves on I think we could survive the 25 below temperatures that might expect.

Next - body clothing. Start with merino wool layers, add a vest, a riding winter top and puffer jacket in the pack along with wind jacket.  Seems simple enough - better add a xtra puffer in the backpack.
What about the legs - cycles bib, long johns, and then XC skate pants  (got some light weight ski over trousers in reserve)


So to race day.  A 4.45 start - it’s a hours drive to the start at the Hahn’s Peak Roadhouse.
Arrive at about 6.30 for the 7.00 start. It’s blowing and snowing. Quick reassessment of the pants brings the ski over trousers into play and Brandi goes for the ski goggles and an extra layer. Both prover to me mistakes.
Bikes off the truck, a quick trip to the loo and then packs on and out into the falling snow.

We line up with the folks doing the 105 mile ( 11 crazy souls ) and the other 32 doing the 50 miles.   No fanfare, pipe bands - just a   3 - 2 - 1 and go. 
Roll down the road into the wind and blowing snow - not hurrying to follow the front as we plan on a slow and steady 50miles.  All to soon Brandi is hot and we stop and strip down - googles - gone for the day and the xtra layer as well . My parka stashed on the outside.
Up the first hill and it’s only a short distance before the whole field is walking - well at least the whole field we can see. The leaders are gone.

Up and over and then down to Columbine. Tricky riding in the snow and just before the paved / packed road Brandi takes her first tumble  (many more will happen during the day)

Paved / packed snow road for a km or so and then onto County Road 550.   Read  - snow covered snowmobile road.  Now it’s good to be early on the road before the little noisy monsters arrive. 

A hard pack line exists from those who have gone before and the riding is easier now but it’s still really single track riding and any deviation of the hard pack and the riding is all but impossible  - mmmm  is 5 psi to much pressure.  Yes that's 5 psi ( remember we ride mtn bike about 20psi and road bikes about 80-100 psi.

The climbing is steady but not steep and we mange to ride most of it . . . . . lots of company in sight but not close and we really just ride by ourselves.  It’s 20 miles to the first aid station but before we get there the snowmobile tours  arrive and passing us. The nice hard pack line is quickly destroyed.  

We work hard with a couple other groups to create our own line but the going is hard.  Finally we arrived at the checkpoint.

Temperature control has been problematic  - the temperature is hovering around - 3 degrees C. Not cold by local standards but our internal temperature most be hovering around 103 degrees.

At the aid station we scoff a couple honey stingers,  a cup of hot water and move out.
Now we are back on packed single track - all alone in the wilderness.  The riding is relatively easy right now but any movement off the track and the front wheel dives in and wants to pull you down. The back wheel follows and a crazy back and forth across the track begins to try and regain control - sometimes yes and others no and more quick step outs or simply crash into the snow.

All to soon the big climb of the day looms out of the falling grapple. Yes just in case you forgot  -it’s still snowing. Grapple (read frozen rain or hail) - it’s noisy on the pulled up rain coat hood, or snow flakes blowing in the wind. We are now up at 2,900 meters and our walking companions tell us the top is just head - 1/2 mile or so. But is it really the top  - yes and no. 

I  declare a lunch stop - well its a brief stop. Not sure of the temperature up here but hat and rain hoody are both on so the the temp is down now. Probably around minus 10-12 degrees C.

Down steeply.  Brandi walks the bike down and I ride the back wheel hard skidding down the track in the deep unpacked,  and then it is up again. Back up to over  2,900 m and we wander along the Continental Divide for 4miles or so before we start dropping

The road down is a easy grade and we enjoy some riding at last.  A small bump out of a creek and the first and only 105 miler passes us. He seems to be in a hurry and disappears immediately.   We check with our wandering companions later and they saw him briefly as well.
Continuing down we appear to be riding into a low valley cloud. No - it’s a huge flat open space.  California Park.
As we wander out into it our companions are mere ghosts yet they are only 100 meters or so away.

We are in the white room - falling snow, white everywhere, cross wind and its almost impossible to see any definition - where exactly is that track?    The ghosts continue ahead of us until we enter the forest.  I know they have a GPS which is somewhat reassuring as we have not seen a course sign for many hours - just some faint lines in the snow.

We chat for a minute and then continue. I’m not sure where we are on the map in my mind, but we cross another empty space with the roar of snowmobiles everywhere ahead of us.

What time is it ?  The skies are getting darker - must be a bit after lunch. NO - wrong. It’s 4.37. We have been moving constantly for 9 hrs 37mins so far.

A major intersection and we turn onto the a road the was nice riding on the way in, but now ripped up by snowmobiles it is hard to find a comfortable ridable line.  We are taking turn about it seems with our two companions.  Finally a low pass leads us into the Columbine Basin and home and the finish now seems real.

5 miles of easy travel brings us to the checkpoint - a nice comfortable building with 7 bikes outside. I thought there was just 4 of us out there.

Beef chili, hot water a biscuit and we hit the road. Pour the remains of the themos into the water bottle and drop it back in the cage  ( We had learnt to keep the bottles upside in the cage to assist in having the water flow - still it’s been frozen for some time and we have to unscrew the cap to get any water at all)

Headlights on.  We know what’s ahead - a small bump - it’s pushing we know for 10mins plus but half way up we are caught by a couple guys who jump on their bikes. It’s our incentive as well and with the worst of the climb behind us we soon roll over the top and start dropping down towards home.   6kms to go The riding is good but the lights feeble so we have still to be careful and as we zig zag down the back with the lights of home in the distance.

The final kms are on hard packed roads - a delight to ride - and we hold hands briefly with expressions of love over our shared adventure.

We turn into the Hahns Peak Roadhouse to a very enthusiastic welcome by Jon - the organiser. He is excited that we rode the race  - on rental bikes with no recent bike riding and that we ‘stuck it out’
Then he is gone and we retreat into the Roadhouse with a change of clothing, and relax over a beer while waiting on our dinner.  Well actually a shandy - still have to drive a hour to home.

Our day on The Bear.

The numbers from my Garmin  (not sure if they are accurate because climbing the hill we were moving at less than 1km per hr so it may have gone onto auto pause but the time is correct.

https://www.strava.com/activities/1390447975

Distance   63.42km      Time   7:27:53     Elevation Gain   1,639m

Spiced Cabbage and Multisport Racing in China. (blast from the past)

Dec 14th 1996

In Sept 1996 the Japanese Tobacco Company ‘Mild Seven’ sponsored the first multisport race in china, as part of a new branding campaign.

A New Zealand team consisting of Fiona Hall, Neil Jones, Tane Humphrey and Geoff Hunt left NZ at very short notice to compete in this first race.

And this is some of the story.
From Auckland to Hong Hong and then by a Chinese Airline to Xichang in China’s Sichuan Province. The home of spiced food. Traditional greetings are held at the airport with rice wine and this sets the pace for the day. A short bus ride to our Hotel, set on the side of Xichang Lake. Now before you think that this is the lap of luxury, remember we are in far-removed China where perhaps 100 previous white faces have been seen.

A day of rest, a briefing by course designer Murphy Reinschreiber, who unfortunately hadn’t read the rules, and the scene is set for this first race of the 4 day event - a staged multiday multisport race.

Day 1     Breakfast of spiced cabbage and such like.
              (thank goodness for the packet of muesli that Fi bought from home)

       Team Biathlon (34kms), In-line skating (16km), Chinese boat Paddle  (16km)

Team biathlon : 34 kms of ride and Tie. Two teammates ride out for a pre-determined distance, drop the bikes and then run on. The following two run up to the bikes and ride. etc etc. This made for a good tactical race, which lead straight into the next in-line ‘off-road’ skating - 16km.

For some teams this proved a breeze (ie a team of cross-country skiers) but others struggled. Lucky for Tane, his feet were a size 8 and the skates fitted. He also knew how to skate and that was a bonus. But both Neil and Fiona struggled and this dropped us back in the field. The 3rd section of day 1 was a 10km paddle in Chinese wooden boats.

We finished in 7th but realized that we would be doing a lot better in the next couple of days.
Dinner:     spiced cabbage and such like

Day 2        Breakfast of spiced cabbage and such like.
                 (thank goodness for the packet of muesli that Fi bought from home)

       Seven Temples Run (20km), River kayak (25kms), Run (17km)

This sounds more like us, and indeed it is.  With a elevation gain of 1700m in the first 7km we still managed to put time on many teams, and finished this section by running through another town closed down for the race. A policeman every 10 metres to guaranteed it.
How to feel like an Olympic champion with thousands of Chinese lining the streets yelling Chou you Chou you, Chou you. A translation which means  - “go faster or get more gas in you tank”.

The river suited the kiwi team as well. With experience we were able to battle an extremely strong wind and keep the toy two-man boats running sort of straight.
A final 15km run through the paddy fields saw us at the overnight camp, now in 4th place overall.
Dinner:     spiced cabbage and such like, but hosted by the local Govt. department in a local  
                  industrial, smoke filled town. Our eyes were all watering

Day 3        Breakfast muesli.

          Mountain Bike Ride (50km), Trail Run (20km)

A great rolling ride along country roads through remote villages, finishing with a major 20km uphill ride. The downhill run through forest trails leading into villages at the bottom was also great. Probably the best day. 
Dinner:    spiced cabbage and such like, again hosted by the local Govt. department in the local 
                industrial, smoke filled town. More red eyes.


Day 4        Breakfast museli. Not today its finished.
        I’m afraid it was a Chinese bread and Squeeze’s.

       Mountaineering (2km), Mountain Bike (52km), Lake Paddle (10km)

Start today is staggered according to overall times. We are 1hr of the pace and watch as the front teams descend the rope section and come back through the camp. The short run and ropes are fun, but the road cycle (on our mtn bikes) is best. Riding close, shouts from the villages (chou you, chou you) and a closed highway make for a fun ride, then it’s back to that lake for a final 10km sprint across the lake, and up to the temples to finish.

For the record: Team Southern Traverse / Endeavor finished 4th behind Scar (USA) 1st ; Eco (USA /NZ) 2nd - with Steve Gurney racing ; and a Spanish team 3rd.

Winter Riding in Queenstown Tuesday 7th June

Winter Riding in Queenstown

It takes a little longer than normal to gear up for night riding in the middle of a Queenstown winter.
First thing Tuesday morning I have to remember to put the batteries on to charge - Glowworms for me, then at 4 o’clock it’s time to stop work and grab a bit of fuel.

My favourite at the moment are some Honey Stinger bars I picked up in Steamboat, but I think I finished them last week, so it will be back to the supermarket energy bars. (Honey Stinger's energy and protein bars, waffles, gels and chews are all-natural foods designed for athletes - non other then Armstrong) and great for anyone looking for a healthy snack. Honey Stinger is pure natural energy and of course is honey based).

That done it’s back to work for an hour and also check the outside temperature on the computer. It will help determine what number of under layers to put on i.e. the lakes calm today so no wind chill to take into account.

Last week with the outside temperature below freezing it takes a little while to get organised, so a couple base layers for me then the Endura winter riding jacket, Torpedo7 vest and a then a wind jacket on (I know it will be in the pack later)
Regular shorts with Ground Effect Beesknees tights, Castelli winter overboots, and ski gloves. 

Dressed phew - now I’m hot! But that changes when I step outside and start rolling down the hill towards Frankton. The wind chill is immediate.

The traffic on Frankton road is so heavy it’s hard to break across. I’ve learnt that if there is any gap, you have to take it and bunny hop up onto the walkway.  As I roll into the Frankton Beach I see that I am 5 mins early. A quick chance to snap a couple of evening shots.

The plan tonite is to climb - it’s to cold for going fast on the trails. (eventually of course you have to come down but  . . .. we will get to that part)  The first climb is up one of the new suburbs above Frankton, grit all over the road, and then higher, grit on ice, so it requires gentle application of power through the whole pedal stroke. High up the road turns to frozen gavel which is a bit easier, and then finally onto the power line road and now we are totally into the permafrost country. The road is rutted and totally frozen solid
"Watch out for the black pieces’  We pass our exit and go looking for another, but turn back to take the first one after taking a few ‘frost photos’   The hoar frost is very impressive here.

Back down slowly - it’s cold and potentially very slippery as Martin finds out when one wheel drops onto a black patch. Frozen water ice in a rut sloping downhill.  Ouch - the right knee is first to touch down and I’m told it took a week to lose the colour.

Climb over a stone catch fence from the development and then down slippery gritted gravel roads to rejoin Frankton Road. 500 meters later we are off and up into the hill suburbs and looking for a marked walking access onto the Queenstown Hill (by the water tank)  A very steep climb takes us to a small col onto the powerline road. (the same one we had been on before)  From the col it descends rough 4* 4 dual track to eventually join the Qtn Hill Track.

In the dark with no one else around it is a wonderful climb (steady climbing with a couple pinches over 20%) The Basket of Dreams is the top for us tonight.  It certainly one way to warm up. Gloves are off by the top to try and keep the body temperature down.

Down slowly to avoid freezing although in the trees it’s not so cold.

A couple of suburban tracks, unknown to the others lead us down to the Frankton Road and then down again to the Frankton track for a steady ride back to Frankton.

The stats
1hr 58mins / 26.5kms / 876m elevation gain / 13.5kms average speed / Average temp is only minus .7 degrees )but this was modified by the temperature rising above freezing as we climbed - yes it was hotter at altitude than in the valley)

How to order a Small Fat Wife in the USA.

A Travel Log,
or How to order a Small Fat Wife in the USA.

18th Sept rolled around quick this year - the end of the ski season for me, marked by two weeks of some of the best skiing of the year on Coronet Peak.

We have entered Levi’s Grandfondo - the result of planning to ride in California (thanks Barry)   So San Fransisco here we come, but the day before someone cuts the fuel line to Auckland airport so reports suggest, we might not even get out, then that the planes will only get 20% gas and have to go elsewhere to refuel. As it turns out we make a trip to Fiji on the way north to refuel  - another stamp in the passport -  hink not as we are kept onboard for hot refueling. It adds really another couple hours to the flight - no affect to us, but I’m sure some people had their plans a little turned upside down.

So we are going to race at the end of Sept - now it’s the 18th and the bikes are dusty and still sitting in the boxes after returning from Cuba. Ski legs - yes, but how do we transform those into 102mile (164kms) race legs

But we have a plan !!  Jump on the bikes and ride - every day till the race. Well it’s not really the best plan, but we do try to achieve it somewhat. 

Lets see - Day 1 - where is the biggest mountain in the area?  Mount Tam (700meters). OK - that seems like a good place to start.  Actually it s really just up the road. Drop onto Hwy 1 - turn right and then right again and soon without much effort we are on the access road. Fantastic views everywhere  - of the city and of the west coast of the good old USA.

We take the obligatory pictures from a lookout and tun to ride along the ridge crest road - fine views of the coast, of Stinson Beach and Bolinas.  We roll along the tops on car free roads - let me repeat that, car free roads (how is it - we are just like 20-30mins from San Fransisco with a population of  7.1million ) but that is the way it is.

Rolling into a magnificent grove of redwoods we meet the BoFax road and turn downhill through a series of fantastic hairpins - shadowed by the redwoods. Out into the open of the Alpine lakes area, across the dam and  then descending -  more of it  - yahoo.  But we are dropping into Farfax and the road is lined by houses and increasing traffic. Suddenly the flats and we are in Fairfax - home to the Museum of Mtn Biking. But more important right now is lunch and a flat white. In my dreams that one - but surprisingly just to the left is a small cafe that has nice food (great croissant) and something resembling a flat white.

A gentle ride home after lunch - clicked up 60.1 kms, a thousand odd meters of climbing, just 3.27mins of moving time, but with the sleep in and bike build we arrive late back at our airbnb late - on funny enough Lattie Lane.

The next few days are the same - get up, eat, ride, protein shake, eat and sleep. We start to rack up the kms - by the end of the week we are up around 500kms and the legs - although a bit tired are feeling better.

Ok - now time for the altitude training. Up to Lake Tahoe at 6,000ft (mmm whats that - about 2,000metres )  High enough to take some benefit from when we go back down to the coast to race. 
First afternoon we tackle Brockway Summit - just some 40kms or so return but a gain of 600m. Lungs and legs feel fine actually and I push hard the last couple or three kms to the top.  Brandi is feeling ok to and is just a minute or so back.

But enough is enough, and since we are visiting a old friend from 40 years previously (when I was a ski bum working in Squaw Valley.) we take the following day off and go walking on the Pacific Crest Trail. Craig is showing us ‘his backyard’ and we stroll through the unique scenery of the high Sierra’s.


Next day - its back on the bike. Around the lake. A day of altitude training. but that is all it is. While the roads start out not to bad and not to crowded (a lot more than in Marin County though) - they just progressively get worse as we approach the very high traffic area of South Shore. Busy roads, casino’s and then a 4 lane highway to Spooner Lake. Lake Tahoe is ever present to the left but we rarely see it. 

Some road works (actually lots of them) give us some relief from the traffic as the road marshals are great and let us through unimpeded by traffic in either direction. We wait after each one and tag onto the end of the chain of cars and continue traffic free on our side. 
118km and 1392m of climbing - ticked the box, been there done that, don’t need to do it again in a hurry.

Altitude training done - we begin the descent back towards the city the next day. Our vehicle is great - a Dodge 7 seater van - but with the seats all folded down in the back we have space along the edges for the bike boxes, then the bikes and in the middle two ski bags. It’s just perfect and was the cheapest vehicle in the entire fleet of rental vehicles in SF - just $25 per day. Could not have asked for a better vehicle - thanks  AVR Airport Van Rentals.

The plan is to drive over into the Yuba River Basin and park the car downriver of Downeville and ride back up the Canyon, lunch and ride back down.  More road works scupper that plan and we continue downstream looking for a suitable quiet road. and boy did we find it!
Tahoe Forest 25 - direction Brandy City. Can’t resist that one and we find a quiet (3 cars in 2.5 hours) country paved road giving access to the Tahoe Forest. Two hours of nonstop climbing - the road all ours, shaded from the sun and the pavement good. Each summit we think is the top - but the road continues forever upwards - the angles are good so we don’t mind.

On the skyline we see a forest watch tower - but as we get closer it is not what it appears. Someone has built a large tower on a ridge with a huge sign - it simply says EAT ME.  Now this has us puzzled, and another half hour disappears as we struggle figuring out what the hell that is about  - in the end we just give up. It still puzzles us.  (42kms and 1011m of climbing)

OK - Time to focus.  - its race time.
A couple more local rides in the Santa Rosa GrandFondo area checking out parts of the course and the race / ride day arrives.

102miles of rough road riding with 4,000 other folks. Yes, 4,000 plus on the start line but we have arrived early and snaffle a reasonable spot. Still we have all the Il Regino riders ahead in their own enclosure (700 or so of them)

3, 2, 1 a kiss and good bye Brandi (she has opted for the shorter 61mile route due to a cold) A couple twists and turns on wide closed roads in the city and then into country lanes.

I push forward at every opportunity and use passing big boys to gain hundreds of spots - how can there be that many in front of me i don’t know. ?

Got to get up there while the going is good and there is heaps of space for passing so I keep moving forward.

The first of the little hills - up and down and the field is spreading out and now on open roads  CAR CAR  The words echo back through the peleton. Dropping into a hard right hand turn - riders appear from the ditch on both sides. No time to ponder - turn and accelerate. Now I am with a good group - up and over little rollers - dropping through tight twisting turns and the peleton is flowing - no sudden braking, no unexpected moments.

Through Guerneville (Hi Steve) and onto the Russian River Road. The climbings begins a few kms after we turn off the road. Kings Ridge - but first you have to get up there and 2 miles of stiff climbing is all it takes. But we are in the miles 30 to 33 and the legs are just feeling it a mite. 

Up on top - well not really.  It is what you might say is rolling but it feels like it only rolls upwards only. We are not real high - peaking at about 486m  - the complete Kings Ridge climb on Starva takes 1hr 13mins @ 21kms/hr, while the main climb takes 40mins @ 9kms/hr


Ahh  - I am exhausted writing about it again.

Hauser Bridge - All Stop. Must descend under escort - waiting waiting. From the Strava record its about 14mins (and a week later I apply to have that time given back - they only allowed 4 mins off my time)

The legs are cold and filled with acid as we descend in a tight group to the bridge - timing clock on - time to race again. The Hauser Bridge climb is Category 4 climb of 15mins followed by another 15kms of climbing - but then - its downhill and more downhill .

From 450meters to the sea in just over 8kms. The Strava segments have names like Drop to the Ocean, Meyers Grade Big Balls DH  - thats 55kms/hr for 3 mins, and the Russian Gulch Downhill - another 3kms of high speed descending.

So now it appears we are on the way home - just along the coast and turn left - climb a hill and back through the rollers and home  - yeah right!

The coast is good - tail wind - good road - company - tail up - heading home.
What did that sign say?  80miles - so let me see thats 20 miles to home - in kms its ???  Come on brain - figure it out.  mmmm give up to hard just keep pedaling

The next turn is a humdinger - drop into a little glitch on Highway 1 and turn left up a nondescript little country road (no wonder we missed it on the checkout)  Whoops  - drop a gear or two, no drop it all the way down and begin to grind.  When I asked Brandi later  - how did you like that f….king hill she knew exactly what I was talking about.

A grind from bottom to top - legs are real tired now and the pedals hard to turn over  - but everyone is struggling  10mins @ 8kms hr feels like forever.!

But we are really on the way home - just those early rollers to cross again and we are finally out on the flat roads  I’m still maintaining 29kms hr so can’t complain - although the legs are. A bike path takes forever and forever before tuning onto the home straight and the finish line.  Exhausted
All I can say for 5mins is coke please - I am done.
Thanks to Trek Corda Madera for the borrowed Trek Madone (but thats another story)

The stats
My Strava report says  163km of tough riding on really rough roads.
Tough day at the office on borrowed bike
For the record  - 163kms and 6.16 and 61st place out of 690 or so
Brandi did the 61mile route - 2nd in class and probably cleaned up the over thirty plus groupings
11 rides including the GrandFondo and 700kms with 10,472 meters of climbing


Now about that flat white or Small Fat Wife
As I walk up to the counter the waitress asks.
"Can i help you?"
'A small flat white please" She looks confused for a while and then answers with a straight face.
"We don’t serve them here, but if you go down the street to Sunpies Bar you should be able to find one there.
Just don’t touch the walls - you you might get Hepatitis"

Now it was my turn to look confused.

Thinking about the guys from Santa Rosa as they battle the fires. I’m sure that the race could not have been held now and the web site says that the organisers - Bike Monkey are shut.

Beuil - Col de Turini 94kms

Beuil - Col de Turini  94kms
Time 5-6hrs Elevation:3090m +


Col de Saint Martin (1 604 m)   20km   Vertical 1050m
Col de Turini (1 607 m)   12km   Vertical 1100


0830 - dropping in.   Brandi the ‘col hunter’, Chris ‘possum hunter’ Yeates and JG ‘dog judge’ Green with yours truly - ‘whitey boss’ trailing along.

‘Dropping in’ are the right words as just after 10 meters from the hotel the brakes are applied for the first time the day. The red rocks and tunnels and blue water canyon of the Gorges Sup du Ciane beckon. After one stop in the middle of the Gorge with the sun just striking the tops and making the red rocks stand out amongst the scrubby green vegetation, JG and the possum hunter are off.

When Brandi and I reach the turn off these is no sign of the other two - just Agnès our trusty driver. Mmmm - first corner turn left ! - must have gone unheard or the winding road was too tempting. Agnès is off in pursuit and its not to long really before she appears.  ‘Found them. They are just behind me’.

Re-group and away on very small country roads up towards the remote village of Pierlas.

The road is narrow and cuts through dramatic tilt slap rock countryside. Must be hard to keep open sometimes with rock falls. The gradient increases and Chris complains of the early morning cold so pushes on and I join him and keep the pace honest to give him a chance to warm up. As I warm to the task I continue on to the village.

Some of this road is really dramatic as it climbs a buttress with the road supported by many levels of stacked stone - the covers so tight the car is forced to do a three point turn and we cycle on, one above the other. At the town I turn and drop back down to ride up with John.

Meanwhile Chris seeks a coffee shop. I had not told him there was not one but a local lady (actually a retiree from Nice) offers him a cup of tea and before she knows it she has 5 of us in the tiny house supping coffee with hubby and her 85 yr old mother-in-law. Fantastic hospitality. We realize later that none of us know her name. Thanks anyway.

Departing the village for the summit of the col de Seine and the ‘col hunter’ is off. I keep company and soon Chris and John are lost behind.
Picnic lunch on the summit - it’s perfect. Cheese, saucisson, apple, bread, butter, chocolate, orange juice,  sparking and still water, sun shine and a hint of the sea in the far distance.

But the time demands that we press on.

We descend past Ilonse on rough twisting tar (this road was pushed through and tarred once 25yrs ago) but after Ilonse the road is in better condition and I press on through snaking corners and hairpins. The valley is 25mins of downhilling away

As I descend I watch a piece of tinfoil blowing across the road and swerve slightly to miss it but int keeps moving across the road  Mmm - there is no wind and as I flash past behind THE SNAkE - it slithers off the road and disappears. I slam on the anchors and turn to try and get another glimpse as i climb slowly up the road edge, but its gone. The others go past and I turn to catch them and recount the story.

Down finally in the valley - cheeks flushed with smiles and hands tired from braking through endless hairpins, we regather our thoughts and begin the valley climb (just a couple clicks) to turn right onto the road to  Col de Saint Martin - some  20km  and  1050m vertical above us.

I ride with Chris and we slowly ascend to the col while Brandi and John chat their way up. Coffee and tart, and for the boys a omelet on top - before more descending. A thousand meters to the valley floor and then another 500meters and 12 kilometers down the valley before the 3rd 1000m climb of the day.

Col de Turini (1 607 m)   12km   Vertical 1100
John and Chris are already into the climb before we arrive but after 3 or 4 kms we catch John and then Chris a km later and we head up. The first kms are tree lined and shady, but it opens and we ascend through open countryside.
Through La Bollene-Vesubie and ahead the famous zig-zap of the Col de Turini.
(the Monte Carlo rally passes this way each year and the braking marks are obvious on the road)

The forest closes in and we snake ever upwards passing from one zag to another. They are endless but the gradient is good so we can spin  / tempo ride in low gear. This last col is unmarked - no signs on the side of the road to indicate the distance or grade. Something we have grown so used to throughout the length of the ride.

A french yells ‘bon courage’ from the side of the road and ‘une kilometer’. I know better than to believe him but Brandi’s eyes light up temporarily. I warn her that it is more like 3 kms to the top and just to continue to pace herself - last climb  - ‘I’m going to leave everything out there’ and so she does in the final rush to the summit.

With some rain in the air we gear up an turn downhill to ride again with John. Brandi soon gets cold and stops and I continue down for John. Soon the three of us are at the summit. The rain that has been threatening now unleashes in full force with hail bouncing of the deck as we cover the bikes and scurry inside. The bags will have to wait.

Bonjour Geoff. Our host Michele is always pleased to see us and passes us the keys. John is in the gods - 4th story but the rest are on a more sane level.

As fast as it arrives the rain departs and we gather our bags, shower and change for dinner. Another day done and the last of the climbing on the Route des Grandes Alps. That beer will sure taste good tonight.

Beuil - Col de Turini 94kms

Beuil - Col de Turini  94kms
Time 5-6hrs Elevation:3090m +


Col de Saint Martin (1 604 m)   20km   Vertical 1050m
Col de Turini (1 607 m)   12km   Vertical 1100


0830 - dropping in.   Brandi the ‘col hunter’, Chris ‘possum hunter’ Yeates and JG ‘dog judge’ Green with yours truly - ‘whitey boss’ trailing along.

‘Dropping in’ are the right words as just after 10 meters from the hotel the brakes are applied for the first time the day. The red rocks and tunnels and blue water canyon of the Gorges Sup du Ciane beckon. After one stop in the middle of the Gorge with the sun just striking the tops and making the red rocks stand out amongst the scrubby green vegetation, JG and the possum hunter are off.

When Brandi and I reach the turn off these is no sign of the other two - just Agnès our trusty driver. Mmmm - first corner turn left ! - must have gone unheard or the winding road was too tempting. Agnès is off in pursuit and its not to long really before she appears.  ‘Found them. They are just behind me’.

Re-group and away on very small country roads up towards the remote village of Pierlas.

The road is narrow and cuts through dramatic tilt slap rock countryside. Must be hard to keep open sometimes with rock falls. The gradient increases and Chris complains of the early morning cold so pushes on and I join him and keep the pace honest to give him a chance to warm up. As I warm to the task I continue on to the village.

Some of this road is really dramatic as it climbs a buttress with the road supported by many levels of stacked stone - the covers so tight the car is forced to do a three point turn and we cycle on, one above the other. At the town I turn and drop back down to ride up with John.

Meanwhile Chris seeks a coffee shop. I had not told him there was not one but a local lady (actually a retiree from Nice) offers him a cup of tea and before she knows it she has 5 of us in the tiny house supping coffee with hubby and her 85 yr old mother-in-law. Fantastic hospitality. We realize later that none of us know her name. Thanks anyway.

Departing the village for the summit of the col de Seine and the ‘col hunter’ is off. I keep company and soon Chris and John are lost behind.
Picnic lunch on the summit - it’s perfect. Cheese, saucisson, apple, bread, butter, chocolate, orange juice,  sparking and still water, sun shine and a hint of the sea in the far distance.

But the time demands that we press on.

We descend past Ilonse on rough twisting tar (this road was pushed through and tarred once 25yrs ago) but after Ilonse the road is in better condition and I press on through snaking corners and hairpins. The valley is 25mins of downhilling away

As I descend I watch a piece of tinfoil blowing across the road and swerve slightly to miss it but int keeps moving across the road  Mmm - there is no wind and as I flash past behind THE SNAkE - it slithers off the road and disappears. I slam on the anchors and turn to try and get another glimpse as i climb slowly up the road edge, but its gone. The others go past and I turn to catch them and recount the story.

Down finally in the valley - cheeks flushed with smiles and hands tired from braking through endless hairpins, we regather our thoughts and begin the valley climb (just a couple clicks) to turn right onto the road to  Col de Saint Martin - some  20km  and  1050m vertical above us.

I ride with Chris and we slowly ascend to the col while Brandi and John chat their way up. Coffee and tart, and for the boys a omelet on top - before more descending. A thousand meters to the valley floor and then another 500meters and 12 kilometers down the valley before the 3rd 1000m climb of the day.

Col de Turini (1 607 m)   12km   Vertical 1100
John and Chris are already into the climb before we arrive but after 3 or 4 kms we catch John and then Chris a km later and we head up. The first kms are tree lined and shady, but it opens and we ascend through open countryside.
Through La Bollene-Vesubie and ahead the famous zig-zap of the Col de Turini.
(the Monte Carlo rally passes this way each year and the braking marks are obvious on the road)

The forest closes in and we snake ever upwards passing from one zag to another. They are endless but the gradient is good so we can spin  / tempo ride in low gear. This last col is unmarked - no signs on the side of the road to indicate the distance or grade. Something we have grown so used to throughout the length of the ride.

A french yells ‘bon courage’ from the side of the road and ‘une kilometer’. I know better than to believe him but Brandi’s eyes light up temporarily. I warn her that it is more like 3 kms to the top and just to continue to pace herself - last climb  - ‘I’m going to leave everything out there’ and so she does in the final rush to the summit.

With some rain in the air we gear up an turn downhill to ride again with John. Brandi soon gets cold and stops and I continue down for John. Soon the three of us are at the summit. The rain that has been threatening now unleashes in full force with hail bouncing of the deck as we cover the bikes and scurry inside. The bags will have to wait.

Bonjour Geoff. Our host Michele is always pleased to see us and passes us the keys. John is in the gods - 4th story but the rest are on a more sane level.

As fast as it arrives the rain departs and we gather our bags, shower and change for dinner. Another day done and the last of the climbing on the Route des Grandes Alps. That beer will sure taste good tonight.

Started the morning in Barcelonnette.

Started the morning in Barcelonnette. Saturday morning market starting to organize in the town square. We were in search of cheese and bread for the day. At 7:11 am we happened upon a very nice man who was setting up for market and sold us cheese. There was a boulangerie where we found beautifully baked bread and Chris filled his hands with patisseries.  We were greeted by the most cheerful lady in town.

The morning was cool and overcast yet the rain from the night before was almost dry. After breakfast and bike prep we began our departure from Barcelonnette about 8 km until starting up one of the highest roads in Europe "The Col de la Bonette". A few drizzles made us put on some rain jackets but luck on our side we did not see much rain just low lying clouds.  We started the climb together when after a few km Chris and Geoff road off and I was happily accompanying John on the climb. Again joined by Geoff and Chris hammered to the top (very top). A lovely climb 2715 meters and 2802 meters to the Cime de la Bonette of which Chris was the only one to venture above the Col which earned him the Marmot Award for tomorrow.

The climb itself was beautiful with low gradient climbs through open landscape where the low lying clouds sat in the belly of the valleys and the peaks graced us from time to time and the clouds moved up and down. It was quite nice at times biking into a cloud with very little visibility except the white lines on the sides of the road. Made the ride quite mythical.

At the top of the Col were greeted by sunshine yet ambient temperatures still cool.

Not quite knowing where Chris and Agnes were and no communications we decided to descend, hoping to all join somewhere in the middle.  That was not to be.  John started the drop and Geoff stayed with me.  I immediately found out that I was a little unprepared for the downhill as it was really cold. Geoff waiting on me and John ahead I could not get rid of the shivers and the bike was shaking really hard underneath me and had to stop to try to warm up numerous times.  All of up were at different places for a while, John ahead wondering if he had gone too far and Chris still on top of the Cime de la Bonette and Geoff and I in the middle.   Geoff directed me to eventually follow him on some uphill sprints to warm up before could complete descent.  Amazingly enough we all ended up at the rendezvous place for lunch at a pizzeria in Saint-Etienne-de-Tinee

I walked into the restaurant to start warming up and within a few minutes we were all inside for lunch. A nice French family were inside enjoying a very jovial Saturday afternoon lunch. The eldest man of the family was most gracious and gave me his jacket to put on and warm up. I accepted and found it very helpful. They also gave us to plates of their fries.  Very fun.

Fueled with cappuccino, coffee,fries and pizza margarette John lead the train down the road about 25 km to deliver us to our next Col. Eventually we swapped leads down the road and bike path to begin Col de la Couillole (a nice Geoff Hunt deviation). A beautiful narrow winding road of 18km approx.  Went into a nice town Roubion built into the side of a hill. With a couple of more km to go, all met on top for our short descent into Beuil where we were met by friendly faces recognized by Geoff from previous stays at the Hotel L'Escapade. We enjoyed a multi course meal of Michelin Star quality. We all needed a small walk before heading to bed and happened on a singing play in a old old church.  Very vibrant costumes and eloquent singing.

Forgot also upon our arrival enjoyed some Italian opera coming from a house where a man outside was tending to his garden.  Ciao he said as we pedaled up the hill.

Very beautiful day.
Bonne nuit.  Off to Col de Turini tomorrow.

Sent from my iPad  Brandi Beauvais