It ‘s quite a drive from Castellane to Bedoin at the bottom of Ventoux
Finally all cars are there but Jef and Robina have left already and Lindsay has continual tyre problems - finally we find a tube that stays up and the now small peleton of 4 head out. We intersect the Ventoux road at the 19km mark having already ridden the equivalent of the extra two kms to get there and start our watches.
The Italian stallion unleashes one of his customary early bursts of speed and we are up to pace immediately. The road rises in front to about 12% and stays there. It is unrelenting. It winds up through forest groves twisting and turning but the gradient does not change - it continues straight up - every corner reveals the same. 12% or so directly up the face of the mountain. Jeff T keeps stomping on the pedals and the battle is on. The pace is steady and consistent to match the unrelenting slope. Small gaps appear in the group and soon each rider is on their own. Against not the others but the mountain. Hamish and Jenny yell encouragement and offer water - but all I can do is shake the head - no breath or energy for words.
Without knowing the hill it is hard to gauge the effort are we all going to burn up and die - can it be this steep all the way? Finally as the trees thin we climb out of the steeper paRTS AND and the gradient eases. Where the road from Sault joins we are able to chance gear fro the first time - 2nd and even third. now the road zig zags a little and the turns enable each time to step up a gear or two before the slope beats us back down to the lowest gear.
Now we are in the treeless zone of the Bald Mountain. A light breeze offers some relief, but when it turns the bright rock reflects the sun straight back. We are lucky that we are later in the day.
Still there are lots of riders on the road - both up and down - earlier Lindsay had reported riders every 10 meters or so, and the reports from mid summer say that more than 10,000 rides attempt the hill each day.
The last three kms climb into the double digits again - 12% plus gradient and these final ones are hard before the last really steep turn onto the final platform of the top.
The girls Kath and Pascale arrive just after Tom with assistance from Hamish top out and champagne is drunk and sprayed. A windless day on Ventoux is unheard off so we have lucked out.
For the record Geoff H 1.32, Jeff T 1.37, Mark 1.37.15, and Linday 1.42 (i think)
Tom records a great ride and takes the ‘ col de Columbia’ prize of the day, as well as the ‘dummy award’ for his miscalculation of the gradients the night before. Both handed out at dinner each night.
How to finish this blog - I have no idea - it has been a great tough two weeks of riding - 945kms in total. The other numbers will be recorded here once we get them from Jef D.
Thursday, September 30, 2010
Gorge de Verdon
A knock on the door and jef d proclaims - ‘it’s 2 degrees outside’ - we know that the first section is downhill, so we quickly decide to put the bikes on the roof for the first section of the ride to the ‘pont soleil ‘- by the time we arrive there after coffee and croissants in the local bakery - it has warmed up to a modest 6 degrees and we are off around the ‘rive gauche’ road. From the small river edge we climb slowly through the cool or should I say cold shade of the early morning to finally emerge into the sun at Trigance.
More climbing brings as to the balcon level on the rive gauche - and the views. the peleton had been asking before this - “where is this gorge you talk off?’ But the first view off the day stuns us - below twisting around a s bend far below is the River Verdon. Tall limestone walls drop vertical beneath our feet. The next hour of ridng is broken by many stops as we savour the views on the right deep into the canyon - it’s hard to concentrate on the road ahead. - but be assured it snakes and turns through and around steep walls above and below. though tunnels with view ports - smooth as silk - sometimes horizontal sometimes down or up - we care not. The surrounds overwhelming the riding even. Ahead a restaurant set impossibly on the edge of the world and coffee and cake follow as we sit with our eyes drawn to the valley bottom. Little figures wind along the valley trail below.
The road beacons ad we continue while the other side draws even closer and soon the canyon walls are only a stone throw apart. Deep below somewhere our walking friends - but we don’t see them.
Climbing again finally brings us to a col with views to Time for the lunch. A snack on the side of the road - left over pineapple pizza and banana for Mark and me Others have snack bars or power bars or fresh air.
We roll of the top into a tight group but a surprising tight rolling corner catches Mark unawares and with the hands still on the hoods a quick grab of the brakes - a side ways slide - and recovery - almost - the tire rolls of the rim and it puts Mark quickly on the ground - only meters in front of myself and Robina - he slides along the tar for a couple meters and under the guard rail fence to a stop. We all stop and lift mark to his feet to check him and the bike - surprising little damage to body and none to the bike. Within 5 mins we are underway again - but we all ride a little slower for the rest of the downhill that leads to the pont (bridge) at the base of the canyon.
Climbing again - I pace Jenny to the top at a steady 12kms hr for about 20kms of uphill. The town of la palud-su-verdon sits back from the rim and offers us beer and croissants - a perfect french cycling mix before riding the 8kms along the rim to the car.
More climbing brings as to the balcon level on the rive gauche - and the views. the peleton had been asking before this - “where is this gorge you talk off?’ But the first view off the day stuns us - below twisting around a s bend far below is the River Verdon. Tall limestone walls drop vertical beneath our feet. The next hour of ridng is broken by many stops as we savour the views on the right deep into the canyon - it’s hard to concentrate on the road ahead. - but be assured it snakes and turns through and around steep walls above and below. though tunnels with view ports - smooth as silk - sometimes horizontal sometimes down or up - we care not. The surrounds overwhelming the riding even. Ahead a restaurant set impossibly on the edge of the world and coffee and cake follow as we sit with our eyes drawn to the valley bottom. Little figures wind along the valley trail below.
The road beacons ad we continue while the other side draws even closer and soon the canyon walls are only a stone throw apart. Deep below somewhere our walking friends - but we don’t see them.
Climbing again finally brings us to a col with views to Time for the lunch. A snack on the side of the road - left over pineapple pizza and banana for Mark and me Others have snack bars or power bars or fresh air.
We roll of the top into a tight group but a surprising tight rolling corner catches Mark unawares and with the hands still on the hoods a quick grab of the brakes - a side ways slide - and recovery - almost - the tire rolls of the rim and it puts Mark quickly on the ground - only meters in front of myself and Robina - he slides along the tar for a couple meters and under the guard rail fence to a stop. We all stop and lift mark to his feet to check him and the bike - surprising little damage to body and none to the bike. Within 5 mins we are underway again - but we all ride a little slower for the rest of the downhill that leads to the pont (bridge) at the base of the canyon.
Climbing again - I pace Jenny to the top at a steady 12kms hr for about 20kms of uphill. The town of la palud-su-verdon sits back from the rim and offers us beer and croissants - a perfect french cycling mix before riding the 8kms along the rim to the car.
Nice - Grasse - Castellane
A short drive from Nice is the perfume capital of France and the start of the next ride
Jef D is up early and scores the prime spot in front of the hotel - the strip of the coast ‘rue de anglais’ is a hell place to find a park - it only took 4 laps at 0730 to grab the spot.
Loaded into three cars - minus a driver - (Alice has disappeared to catch up on mum Jane in Italy) we head out to Grasse and a chance for the girls to shop - Fontaine perfumery. We circle the streets looking for a park beside a cafe that would enable us to watch the cars and finding one, the boys relax in the sun to enjoy some croissants and cafe.
It’s one o'clock before we start - after sorting out drivers for the cars and we climb out of Grasse on the route napoleon. Up and up - but we are well used to this idea now, so not fazed and soon we reach the first of 4 cols for the day - Jeff T and Geoff H stop on top first.
In the distance we see the road disappearing over another col but this time it is Tom who out sprints the chasing peleton to take the honours. A ice cream stop is called at the shop on the top - time for Geoff H to try and sop a squeaking roller (to no avail this time)
The day rolled on with both Hamish and Jenny taking first to the top and their own ‘cols’ - it seems that by the end of this ride everyone has had a chance to bag a col.
Another perfect ride and we roll into the hotel at Castellane - Auberge de Teillon.
From the outside - just a plain old hotel - inside the rooms are plain but adequate and we have the place to ourselves.
A cheese and wine call finds us in the back of the village that backs onto the hotel. (the following evening the hotel surprises us with a fine dinning room and one of the finest meals of the tour.)
Jef D is up early and scores the prime spot in front of the hotel - the strip of the coast ‘rue de anglais’ is a hell place to find a park - it only took 4 laps at 0730 to grab the spot.
Loaded into three cars - minus a driver - (Alice has disappeared to catch up on mum Jane in Italy) we head out to Grasse and a chance for the girls to shop - Fontaine perfumery. We circle the streets looking for a park beside a cafe that would enable us to watch the cars and finding one, the boys relax in the sun to enjoy some croissants and cafe.
It’s one o'clock before we start - after sorting out drivers for the cars and we climb out of Grasse on the route napoleon. Up and up - but we are well used to this idea now, so not fazed and soon we reach the first of 4 cols for the day - Jeff T and Geoff H stop on top first.
In the distance we see the road disappearing over another col but this time it is Tom who out sprints the chasing peleton to take the honours. A ice cream stop is called at the shop on the top - time for Geoff H to try and sop a squeaking roller (to no avail this time)
The day rolled on with both Hamish and Jenny taking first to the top and their own ‘cols’ - it seems that by the end of this ride everyone has had a chance to bag a col.
Another perfect ride and we roll into the hotel at Castellane - Auberge de Teillon.
From the outside - just a plain old hotel - inside the rooms are plain but adequate and we have the place to ourselves.
A cheese and wine call finds us in the back of the village that backs onto the hotel. (the following evening the hotel surprises us with a fine dinning room and one of the finest meals of the tour.)
Saturday, September 25, 2010
lots of route des grandes alpes photos on flickr
and more photos tomorrow as well
A day to Savour
A day to SavourFollowing the recommendation of the Escapade hotel owner we took a completely different route to that in the ‘route de grande alp guide.
Down the gorge du Cians - red rock ala grand canyon - the difference is that it is 4 degrees as we leave the top of the gorge and sure it is below freezing as we drift into the ever deepening canyon of red rock - with a blue stream filling the valley bottom.
Mark stops for photos - luckily as the corner soon after tightens considerably and your truly takes two big bites of the brake to slow while Jeff D used every inch of the road to make the corner and it was only just.
Several photo stops later and we empty ot of the valley onto a shoulder of zig zags down again into the valley, but here we leave this system and climb (again on the hotel recommendation) up a increasingly narrow and beautiful valley rood - direction Pierias. Unexpected visual pleasures open around each corner and this more than makes up for the increasing steepness. - we think it exceeds 12% in places and is the steepest climbing we have done on the ride so far.
But the scenery of this tight valley more than make up for it.
A couple cars come pass with - rally signs on them and they are soon followed by a lotus, fiat, porsche, some more standard french wagons, a cadillac and others. A three day car rally / tour making its way past on one lane tar road. We all pay each other respect, But the group are very surprised with calls from some cars of ‘go kiwi’ and Jenny even more surprised to hear her name called (Jenny and Hamish stayed with friends in Grenoble the week before and by utter chance the tour stops on the col - the most remote spot we have been too - and their friends are there.)
We - the car drivers and us - exchange stories in a mixture of Frenglish / French and English, before we begin a 15km descent down a single lane tar track - scattered rocks and holes do eventually cause a problem with the Italian stallion - now referred to as the pony - puncturing and being forced into the support wagon - unable to repair or replace the tube.
This entire ride to this point - the Gorge de Cians, the climb (steep as it was) up through Pierias, the descent through ILonse down to the D2205 is rated by all as the absolute best ride of the tour so far.
The valley ride into Nice, is smooth and fast - 36-39kms hr - before we back of to 33kms so too stay as a tight peleton. Mark punctures once, then again in the final 10kms ride along the Nice waterfront.
The day is finished by a swim in the Med, before we head into the old town for dinner.
Friday 24 September Day 8 Barcelonette to Beuil 83km
After a plesant stay in The Grand Hotel with its cycling memorabilia in a very quaint village we set off on cool morning with rain forcast.
The road started to wind its way gently up a beautiful valley the altitude at barcelonette was 1100m and the first aim was the Col de la Cayolle at 2300m.
Cycling up hills has taken on a whole new meaning for me here in France. The thought of climbing up one 1000m plus hill a day back in NZ is something I never would have considered our thought possible previously. Let alone 2 x 1000m plus hills in the same day!!!
The legs felt leaden initially, but luckily the gradient started gently and the valley was truely spectacular. The road was small and twisty and virtualy carless which added to the beauty and wound through the Mercantour National Park. It was 30km to the col and there were some great photo opportunities. Tom and I cruised along at the back at our own pace taking the role of “Lantern Rouge” or tail sweepers very seriously. The gradient was kind for the first 20km then rose up to 8% for a few of the last 10km with a cold head wind adding to grind.
It was a quick change at the Col de la Cayolle into all our warm gear as it was misty and down to a cold 4 degrees. The larch forests were said to indicate a warmer climate as we close in on the Mediterranean!
What goes up must come down and the best thing about a 30km climb is a wonderful 30 km descent. This started off bumpy but shortly after a warming hot chocolate at a quaint refuge the road became smooth and it was another truely awesome downhill, all 33km of it. At one stage we were passed by a small truck and Jef, Geoff, Jeff, Mark and I jumped in behind it and drafted more than 10km behind it at 40 to 50kph without hardly a pedal stroke.
Eventually we found ourselves in another beautiful French village, this one called Guillames at 780m, so thats 1500m downhill!!! At this point the veteran’s ride finished (apart from Robina and Geoff who are in the open division). Tom, Jenny and I tried to complain as the next climb looked great also, but were informed that at this stage in the tour only one 1000m climb per day is allowed for veterans. The offer of a beer and lunch soon appeased us.
Apparently the open division never got out of second gear during the next climb up another small and stunning valley. They topped out at 1780m at Valberg which is a ski area in winter and had a short 5km descent to Beuil just as it started to rain. We stayed at L’Escapade with a michelin star restaurent and the 14th centuary village was very quaint and we all enjoyed a great evening.
Written by Hamish
The road started to wind its way gently up a beautiful valley the altitude at barcelonette was 1100m and the first aim was the Col de la Cayolle at 2300m.
Cycling up hills has taken on a whole new meaning for me here in France. The thought of climbing up one 1000m plus hill a day back in NZ is something I never would have considered our thought possible previously. Let alone 2 x 1000m plus hills in the same day!!!
The legs felt leaden initially, but luckily the gradient started gently and the valley was truely spectacular. The road was small and twisty and virtualy carless which added to the beauty and wound through the Mercantour National Park. It was 30km to the col and there were some great photo opportunities. Tom and I cruised along at the back at our own pace taking the role of “Lantern Rouge” or tail sweepers very seriously. The gradient was kind for the first 20km then rose up to 8% for a few of the last 10km with a cold head wind adding to grind.
It was a quick change at the Col de la Cayolle into all our warm gear as it was misty and down to a cold 4 degrees. The larch forests were said to indicate a warmer climate as we close in on the Mediterranean!
What goes up must come down and the best thing about a 30km climb is a wonderful 30 km descent. This started off bumpy but shortly after a warming hot chocolate at a quaint refuge the road became smooth and it was another truely awesome downhill, all 33km of it. At one stage we were passed by a small truck and Jef, Geoff, Jeff, Mark and I jumped in behind it and drafted more than 10km behind it at 40 to 50kph without hardly a pedal stroke.
Eventually we found ourselves in another beautiful French village, this one called Guillames at 780m, so thats 1500m downhill!!! At this point the veteran’s ride finished (apart from Robina and Geoff who are in the open division). Tom, Jenny and I tried to complain as the next climb looked great also, but were informed that at this stage in the tour only one 1000m climb per day is allowed for veterans. The offer of a beer and lunch soon appeased us.
Apparently the open division never got out of second gear during the next climb up another small and stunning valley. They topped out at 1780m at Valberg which is a ski area in winter and had a short 5km descent to Beuil just as it started to rain. We stayed at L’Escapade with a michelin star restaurent and the 14th centuary village was very quaint and we all enjoyed a great evening.
Written by Hamish
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