Except for the car alarm going off on the street in the middle of the night for about 5 minutes, I think we all had a pretty good night in the Igloo Hotel. Bright eyed and keen to get going, we were rolling our wheels at 9 am as planned. No confusion on the route today as there were constant signs directing us to the Col de Columbiere, one of the classics of the Tour de France.
Beautiful forests along the way, cow bells ringing on the road side, an incredible array of classic European mountain chalets with exquisite wooden detailing, we were all grinning as we made our way out of Morzine and the immense terrain of Avoriaz, the largest of the European ski areas. As we had gained about 600 metres in altitude and 90 km distance yesterday from Geneva (375m) to Morzine (975m), the climb as we started this day took us to the ski area and Col des Gets, about another 200m higher (1170m).
From the top, we were treated to an exhilarating curvy downhill that only the Alpes can provide...screaming down through the mountains, sucking off the back wheel of the mate ahead, leaning into the perfectly banked bends and switchbacks, we flew down the road to some little village at 475m. Giddy with adrenalin, you'd think we had just had our first skydive or kayak ride through a class 6 rapid...we couldn't stop blabbering.
Through to the other side of the village, we connected with our main man, Hayden, the king of support drivers. Stripping off our wind proofs and helmets (no helmet laws in France), we began the first of the big climbs - the Col de Combiere which tops out at 1618m. A slight respite at the village of Reposoir about 1/3 of the way up, we mentally and physically endured the 12% climb right up into the cloudy mist at the top. Temperatures were cool which made for user friendly cycling and the riding times ranged from 1hr 12min to 1hr 40min with all managing a high spirit along the way. The painted writing is constant on the road surface spurring on legends of the Tour de France. The cafe at the summit was welcome to escape the cold mist outside, a hearty bowl of soup, cups of tea and coffee as waited for all to arrive, then donning all our warm clothes, we screamed down another wicked descent, drawing up quick for the herd of goats blocking the road and a couple of photos of the valley WAY below.
Bottoming out, regrouping, pedalling a short distance, then another climb up the Col des Aravis, topping out at 1486m from a 925m start. This one didn't hurt quite so bad as the gradient was easier on the legs and the front peloton of 6 accepted the pace set by Robina. All was fine until about 100m from the summit when she decided to burn us with a sprint that increased in velocity until she had spurned the 5 of us.
No time for a stop as there was a breeze which would chill us fast, we grabbed wind shells from Hayden and screamed down another unbelievable downhill to the town of Flumet, 15km and about 800m below. As we delve deeper into the Alpes, the village architecture becomes more pure and ancient with the smattering of newness that comes from the real estate game of the ski areas. The cow bells are constant, the hillsides lush after a verdant summer of growth, and the harvests have been, or are happening.
A left turn at Flumet directed us to the final 10km which took us to Megeve, a diversion allowing us the opportunity to visit Chamonix tomorrow for a trip up the Aguile de Midi and a tramp on the peaks. A meaty day under our belts, 94km with a couple of hefty climbs, the wine and laughs flowed easy with the inaugural presentation of the Col de Columbiere award which will be followed each day with intrepid interest...this adds to the Dummy award which was presented last night and passed tonight from Tom to Lindsay. Staying at the Hotel de Prairie, we are all looking forward to a quiet sleep sans car alarms.
Saturday, September 18, 2010
Friday, September 17, 2010
Day one Geneva -> Morzine
Straight out of the blocks this morning Lindsay was firing on all cylinders and the peleton of 5 rode to the start line (20kms) in Geneva just managed to hang on to the back wheel (Lindsay likes to now think of himself as the Italian stallion - having done some training in Italy)
Nice roads and cycle lanes soon saw us on the Geneva waterfront waiting on the jets d’or to blast (for the photo opportunity) A coffee (and crepe) filled the time
1034 and we departed for Thonon and the true route des grandes alpes start.
A busy road and 30kms saw us struggle a little to find the D902 but a Morzine.
sign saved the day and we turn south for the first time into the gorge diablo.
Uphill climbing - but it is only a 3 % grade so easy spinning almost all the way to Morzine.
A small zig zag to finish and we find our hotel the Igloo.
Sunday, September 12, 2010
route des grandes alpes - the peleton of one
Have had two solid rides in the hills of Tuscany and looking forward to a ride part way around lake Garda in northern Italy at sparrowfart. ciao Lindsay.
Saturday, September 11, 2010
route des grandes alpes
hi geoff,
the advance peleton can report that riding in europe is fantastic. the advance peleton of 1 enjoyed a spin at 6.30am for 90 mins this morning in theTuscan hills, traffic very very obliging, cool in the morning but around 28 in the afternoon. one short 10 per cent grade but mostly gentle rolling. where we are is an internet wasteland but in an internet cafe now. reports will be sporadic. ciao everyone from Di and Lindsay in Tuscany...
the advance peleton can report that riding in europe is fantastic. the advance peleton of 1 enjoyed a spin at 6.30am for 90 mins this morning in theTuscan hills, traffic very very obliging, cool in the morning but around 28 in the afternoon. one short 10 per cent grade but mostly gentle rolling. where we are is an internet wasteland but in an internet cafe now. reports will be sporadic. ciao everyone from Di and Lindsay in Tuscany...
Of Dreams, Porsches and Girls
Riding in Andorra '09
The last day suggestion - ride a short distance down the valley, then climb 7km, another 15kms to a X country ski resort - but what would I do with the rest of the day - so the 3 nations tour beacons - the north wind decides that a down river ride to start is best - it would always seem that to ride down to home would be the best anyway.
A quick glance at the map - not long enough it turns out - because the names on the col and towns did not stick - only the last col which did not feature on road signs boards till 3/4 of the ride are complete.
Out of Tallo is easy - 2 clicks and turn left onto a national road - down with the river through the gorge to La seux du Urgell 34kms on smooth fast tar - too easy but I note the drop - it was 1120M at the start and we are now at 750 metres - I know the Pass is over 2000meteres so all to aware that the ascension ahead is growing.
Follow the signs to Andorra - it’s strange for a kiwi to think that I’m heading up a busy road into another country - Should I have bought my passport ?- Will they stop me at the border/ - in fact I have no id - nothing - just a phone and 40 euro in the back pocket
The border post is busy but no one stopping cars going in - so in under the building and out the other side - already I’m back at 1100meters and the climbing has not been too bad.
The road is busy though - a steady stream of trucks / cars and buses - all polite - they stay behind until there is room to pass and I feel no pressure - except from the road which continues to climb. I’m in the lowest gear on the borrowed Massi bike - and it is here I stay - only once after heading through the tiny enclave of Encamp do I feel like another (lower) gear.
I’m just following the signs to Andorra la Velle (the capital) although there is really no where else to go, in a narrow valley climbing ever up into Andorra - a steady stream of exotic cars. Porsche 4 * 4, BMW wagons, and small zippy cars pass.
Andorra la Vella appears - trapped in it’s valley with peaks towering and buildings climbing the hill sides - even in town it’s not flat and I remain in the low cog
Where is it I’m going ? What was the name of the pass?
The next village ’Encamp’ has a i information office and I stop briefly and check the tourist map to be sure - the lady answers me that the road will climb more steeply.
Ski lifts appear and the altimeter reads 1700 as the cold wind increases out of a valley direct from France to the north. I stop and put the vest on as I climb directly into it, lucky only for a short distance before turning into the lee of the mountains that must be the Andorra French border.
Ahead finally the horizon appears but the 10km to pass sign takes a little sting out of the enthusiasm, but the country entertains and the road remains constant - a steady but easy gradient (at least for the granny gear)
Another major ski area fills the cirque to the right and the road now climbs in a serpentine fashion so common in the Alps. It’s a joy to ride - the tar smooth - the traffic light - the legs still turning over nicely after 3hrs 50mins in the saddle. One two three.....seven or eight hairpins to the top @ 2085 meters. The snow still lying in thick patches on the road side.
Boy that coffee and coke will be good on the pass - but only a couple of run down service stations - the lady in one informs me that ’cafe in quatra kilometers’ - at least that is what I thought she said.
In the shelter of the building the arm warmers go on as well and the descent begin. After only 1 kilometer and 3 hairpins I see the village / the ski station of pas de la Casa. It’s a typical new French style station - new buildings in ski station style - probably a Irish pub or two, but it’s a coffe shop I’m seeking and the first one see is the one.
Cafe con lecha - no I’m close to France and figure it must be cafe au lait by now, with coke, croque monsieur, apple tart and english speaking waitress to serve. A second coffee and I’m feeling fine again. The remnants of the coke go in the water bottle - pull up the arm warmers and head out of town.
Two hundred metres later the French border - a huge line up of cars entering Andorra but those leaving are not bothered and away we roll.
At he roundabout I do a full circle to see where I was and to take in the view - brrr - it’s cold in the wind and the brakes stay on to keep the wind chill down - tuck in behind a couple of cars to allow them to break the wind. Still really don’t know 100% how far down or how much up to the next col - although ahead the road begins to match the remnants of the map in the back of my mind and the road sign Toulouse or barcalona reinforces it .
Straight ahead and up - ultra smooth wide no traffic and the saddle already in view just a km ahead - all easy because I know what awaits - 30km downhill. To have the wind at your back - competing with BMW’s and others for corner space on a selection of hairpins, then on the lower valley roads - running with the trucks that slow to pass and offer great drafting when they do - legs feel good after 5hrs of riding in them and three days of riding before. It’s a easy smiling ride back into Puigcerda.
At the shop where I borrowed the bike from the spaniard named Mickey stage 17 of the Giro graces the big screen. So I stop with a couple of the local boys and watch the last 35kms over a coffee con lecha. Pellisato wins (liquigas) with Armstrong showing his face in the last 10kms to try and pull him back, or was he just testing the legs ?????
18kms to home - feel like a champion - legs still have power, the buzz of the day, watching the Giro, thinking that you are a cyclist - after a day riding in the three Nations tour.
For the record ascension 1535 metres - distance 132kms - time 5hrs 15mins - –
the route - Tallo La Seu da Urgell -. Andorra -> Andorra La Velle -> Encamp -> Port d’ Envalina -> Pas de la Casa (lunch) -> Cl de Puymonens -> Puigcerda
The previous rides
Sunday 65kms / average 27kms hr / 1000 metres acension 2hrs 2mins
Monday 61kms / 800 -900 meters acension / 2hrs 5mins
Tuesday 2hrs easy valley ride Georgie / Marti (under 23 mtn bike champ - pro rider)
The last day suggestion - ride a short distance down the valley, then climb 7km, another 15kms to a X country ski resort - but what would I do with the rest of the day - so the 3 nations tour beacons - the north wind decides that a down river ride to start is best - it would always seem that to ride down to home would be the best anyway.
A quick glance at the map - not long enough it turns out - because the names on the col and towns did not stick - only the last col which did not feature on road signs boards till 3/4 of the ride are complete.
Out of Tallo is easy - 2 clicks and turn left onto a national road - down with the river through the gorge to La seux du Urgell 34kms on smooth fast tar - too easy but I note the drop - it was 1120M at the start and we are now at 750 metres - I know the Pass is over 2000meteres so all to aware that the ascension ahead is growing.
Follow the signs to Andorra - it’s strange for a kiwi to think that I’m heading up a busy road into another country - Should I have bought my passport ?- Will they stop me at the border/ - in fact I have no id - nothing - just a phone and 40 euro in the back pocket
The border post is busy but no one stopping cars going in - so in under the building and out the other side - already I’m back at 1100meters and the climbing has not been too bad.
The road is busy though - a steady stream of trucks / cars and buses - all polite - they stay behind until there is room to pass and I feel no pressure - except from the road which continues to climb. I’m in the lowest gear on the borrowed Massi bike - and it is here I stay - only once after heading through the tiny enclave of Encamp do I feel like another (lower) gear.
I’m just following the signs to Andorra la Velle (the capital) although there is really no where else to go, in a narrow valley climbing ever up into Andorra - a steady stream of exotic cars. Porsche 4 * 4, BMW wagons, and small zippy cars pass.
Andorra la Vella appears - trapped in it’s valley with peaks towering and buildings climbing the hill sides - even in town it’s not flat and I remain in the low cog
Where is it I’m going ? What was the name of the pass?
The next village ’Encamp’ has a i information office and I stop briefly and check the tourist map to be sure - the lady answers me that the road will climb more steeply.
Ski lifts appear and the altimeter reads 1700 as the cold wind increases out of a valley direct from France to the north. I stop and put the vest on as I climb directly into it, lucky only for a short distance before turning into the lee of the mountains that must be the Andorra French border.
Ahead finally the horizon appears but the 10km to pass sign takes a little sting out of the enthusiasm, but the country entertains and the road remains constant - a steady but easy gradient (at least for the granny gear)
Another major ski area fills the cirque to the right and the road now climbs in a serpentine fashion so common in the Alps. It’s a joy to ride - the tar smooth - the traffic light - the legs still turning over nicely after 3hrs 50mins in the saddle. One two three.....seven or eight hairpins to the top @ 2085 meters. The snow still lying in thick patches on the road side.
Boy that coffee and coke will be good on the pass - but only a couple of run down service stations - the lady in one informs me that ’cafe in quatra kilometers’ - at least that is what I thought she said.
In the shelter of the building the arm warmers go on as well and the descent begin. After only 1 kilometer and 3 hairpins I see the village / the ski station of pas de la Casa. It’s a typical new French style station - new buildings in ski station style - probably a Irish pub or two, but it’s a coffe shop I’m seeking and the first one see is the one.
Cafe con lecha - no I’m close to France and figure it must be cafe au lait by now, with coke, croque monsieur, apple tart and english speaking waitress to serve. A second coffee and I’m feeling fine again. The remnants of the coke go in the water bottle - pull up the arm warmers and head out of town.
Two hundred metres later the French border - a huge line up of cars entering Andorra but those leaving are not bothered and away we roll.
At he roundabout I do a full circle to see where I was and to take in the view - brrr - it’s cold in the wind and the brakes stay on to keep the wind chill down - tuck in behind a couple of cars to allow them to break the wind. Still really don’t know 100% how far down or how much up to the next col - although ahead the road begins to match the remnants of the map in the back of my mind and the road sign Toulouse or barcalona reinforces it .
Straight ahead and up - ultra smooth wide no traffic and the saddle already in view just a km ahead - all easy because I know what awaits - 30km downhill. To have the wind at your back - competing with BMW’s and others for corner space on a selection of hairpins, then on the lower valley roads - running with the trucks that slow to pass and offer great drafting when they do - legs feel good after 5hrs of riding in them and three days of riding before. It’s a easy smiling ride back into Puigcerda.
At the shop where I borrowed the bike from the spaniard named Mickey stage 17 of the Giro graces the big screen. So I stop with a couple of the local boys and watch the last 35kms over a coffee con lecha. Pellisato wins (liquigas) with Armstrong showing his face in the last 10kms to try and pull him back, or was he just testing the legs ?????
18kms to home - feel like a champion - legs still have power, the buzz of the day, watching the Giro, thinking that you are a cyclist - after a day riding in the three Nations tour.
For the record ascension 1535 metres - distance 132kms - time 5hrs 15mins - –
the route - Tallo La Seu da Urgell -. Andorra -> Andorra La Velle -> Encamp -> Port d’ Envalina -> Pas de la Casa (lunch) -> Cl de Puymonens -> Puigcerda
The previous rides
Sunday 65kms / average 27kms hr / 1000 metres acension 2hrs 2mins
Monday 61kms / 800 -900 meters acension / 2hrs 5mins
Tuesday 2hrs easy valley ride Georgie / Marti (under 23 mtn bike champ - pro rider)
Thursday, March 4, 2010
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